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In praise of surf localism
I read an article the other day citing a 2023 YouGov poll that showed 41 percent of Americans believe that the Earth is only nine-and-a-half thousand years old, and that man and dinosaurs coexisted. I ...
It has been said that surfers are selfish. Having grown up a second-generation Windansea local in La Jolla, and having both married a surfer and raised one, I can say that the oft-whispered slight isn ...
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